POTATO, LEEK, AND BACON RAVIOLI

Steps:

• Cook the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot of unsalted water to cover at a steady boil for 20 minutes or longer, until just cooked through. Don't let them crack or get mushy on the outside. Let them cool briefly, then peel and slice them into rounds, 1/4 inch thick.
• Heat the oil and the bacon pieces in a skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 3 or 4 minutes, until the bacon is sizzling and has rendered much of its fat. Stir in the leeks and cook another 3 minutes or so, until they're wilted and sizzling. Spread the potato slices in the pan, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the bacon and leeks.
• Cook for 8 minutes or more over medium-high heat, breaking up the potatoes into chunks. Spread and press the filling flat in the pan, and let caramelize for a couple of minutes. Turn the pieces, press, and fry; then repeat. When the filling is thoroughly cooked and has started to color, scrape it into a mixing bowl. Cool briefly, then crush the potatoes some more with a fork (I like to have little chunks left); add salt, pepper, and cheese to the filling to taste.
• Roll dough strips following the master method, page 189. For each raviolo, scoop up a heaping tablespoon of potato filling, shape it round, and set in place. Cover and cut ravioli.
• Cook and sauce ravioli as on page 192. Remove pan from heat, sprinkle the freshly grated cheese over, and serve.
• Butter and Fresh Sage Sauce (page 118) is the best, but Fresh Tomato Sauce (page 183) would go well too.