ARROZ CALDO WITH COLLARDS AND SOY-CURED EGG YOLKS
The Filipino rice porridge called lugaw started out as a simple equation of rice, water and salt, until the conquistadors arrived in the 16th century and demanded more sumptuous dishes. Add tripe and innards to lugaw, and it becomes goto; with chicken and saffron, it is arroz caldo. It's looser and soupier than Chinese congee, cooked until you can't see individual grains. I put in collard greens to make it a balanced meal and use wings because of the high bone-to-meat ratio and the jiggly skin. (Keeping the bones in will give the broth more flavor.) The soy sauce-cured yolks are probably best at the two-hour mark - they get firmer and saltier the longer they cure, so follow your taste.
Provided by Angela Dimayuga
Categories dinner, grains and rice, one pot, poultry, soups and stews, main course
Time 2h30m
Yield 6 servings (makes 12 cups)
Number Of Ingredients 15
Steps:
- Prepare the cured egg yolks - and save your egg carton, as it is the perfect egg-curing holder. You'll want to first remove the top of the eggs: Working with one at a time, tap each egg on a sharp corner of your work surface around the top third of the egg to pop off the crown. Pour the egg into one palm and let the egg white sink through your fingertips to separate the yolk from the whites, discarding the egg whites or saving them for another use. Gently slide the egg yolk back into its shell, top it with 1 teaspoon soy sauce, and swirl the yolk in its shell so the soy sauce is fully distributed, settling under the yolk as well. Transfer the egg yolk in its shell back into the egg container, setting it upright. Repeat with the remaining eggs, returning them all to the egg carton. Set aside to cure at room temperature.
- In a large pot, heat the oil over medium. Add the onion and minced garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 7 minutes.
- Add the chicken flats and drumettes, season with 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat starts to render, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice until coated in fat. Increase the temperature to medium-high, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is toasted, about 5 minutes.
- Stir in the stock, collards, crushed ginger pieces and saffron and bring to a boil over high.
- Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is tender and almost falling off the bone, and the rice grains have broken down significantly, about 1 1/2 hours. The broth should be thinner than a Chinese congee, so add 1 cup of water at a time if the soup has thickened too much. Once you get to this stage, discard the crushed ginger pieces, which served as an aromatic.
- Season the arroz caldo with the fish sauce, then divide among bowls. Top with a squeeze of calamansi or lemon (and serve additional wedges on the side, for those that like more acid), a soy-cured yolk, fried garlic, scallions and julienned ginger.
SOY-SAUCE-PICKLED EGGS
Yusuke Shimoki runs Engawa, a tiny bar in Japan. To accompany his sakes, he occasionally serves soy-sauce-pickled egg yolks, which he cures in a mixture of mirin-sweetened soy sauce and a strip of the dried kelp known as kombu. A recipe for it appeared in The Times in 2015, after Shimoki visited the United States. You can marinate the yolks for as little as 6 hours and as long as a couple of days, but they are perhaps best after 8 or 9 hours, when the yolks become creamy, with a slightly firm skin.
Provided by Sam Sifton
Categories snack
Time 8h
Yield 3 to 6 servings
Number Of Ingredients 4
Steps:
- Combine soy sauce, mirin and kombu in a small bowl.
- Gently add egg yolks to the soy-sauce mixture, cover and place in refrigerator to cure for six hours, up to two or three days. The yolks will firm up and darken over time, becoming quite hard in three days.
- Serve 1, 2 or 3 yolks per person, over steamed short-grained rice.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 80, UnsaturatedFat 2 grams, Carbohydrate 3 grams, Fat 4 grams, Fiber 0 grams, Protein 6 grams, SaturatedFat 1 gram, Sodium 2347 milligrams, Sugar 0 grams
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